Palm Trees Los Angeles

How We Cook in Los Angeles -1894: Salads


These salad recipes come from the cookbook, “How We Cook in Los Angeles,” originally published in 1894 by the Ladies’s Social Circle of the Simpson M.E. Church.


E. P. E.

In salad making, the best success is obtainable only by
a close observance of three very important rules, viz.:

I. The ingredients composing the salad and dressing
must be suitably chosen.

II. They must be introduced into the mixture in a
certain specific order.

III. The method of mixing must be suited to the nature
of the ingredients.

A dressing should not be the prominent feature of a
salad. It should be a dressing only; an adjunct to tone
down too sharp an acid, or a flavor too pungent ; or to
render more distinctive the individuality of the fruits,
vegetables, etc., composing the salad. This is the true
mission of the dressing.

There are four distinct classes of salad dressing:
1. Transparent dressing. 2. French dressing.
3. Cream dressing. 4. Mayonnaise dressing.


Three oranges (juice only); 4 ounces of sugar; 1 lemon
(juice only); 1 egg.

Beat together, using the white and shell of the egg.
Heat to boiling point. Simmer five minutes. Strain.
If liked, a little of the grated peel of both orange and
lemon may be added.


Add to the above mixture before heating a half ounce
of gelatine soaked in half a gill of water.


One pint of tomato, stewed and strained ; 1 tablespoon
arrowroot mixed in cold water; 1 ounce butter; 1/2 teaspoon
each of sugar and salt; a little pepper.

Boil tomato and arrowroot two minutes. Add butter,
salt, pepper, and sugar. Nice either hot or cold with any
kind of meat salad.


Four teaspoons of vinegar; 1/2 teaspoon of salt; 1/8 tea-
spoon of pepper. Mix, and pour over salad, then add
Rowland’s olive oil to taste.


One pint of boiling cream; 2 ounces of flour; 2 ounces-
of butter. Stir the flour and butter to a smooth paste, add
the boiling cream and cook two minutes. Remove from
the saucepan, and add the batter, stirring until cool and
perfectly mixed; then season to taste with lemon juice,
vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, capers, minced onion,
parsley, chopped pickled cucumbers; any or all of these.


One cup of sour cream; 1/4 cup of vinegar or lemon-
juice; season with salt and cayenne pepper. Use on vege-
table or fish salads.


One ounce of flour; 1 ounce of butter; 1 pint sweet cream;
salt, and pepper. Cook flour and butter together two
minutes; add cream, and season to taste. Use on cauli-
flower, beets, potatoes, or any vegetable.


One teaspoon of mustard; 1 teaspoon of salt; 1 1/2 tea-
spoons of vinegar; 1 yolk of egg; 1/2 pint Howland’s olive

Use a two quart bowl to allow room for beating. Mix
the mustard, salt and vinegar; add the yolk, beat well, add
the oil, pouring it in, in a fine, thread-like stream, beating
rapidly all the time. Vinegar or lemon juice may be added
if required to make it of the proper consistency.


Five yolks of eggs, 5 tablespoons vinegar; 4 ounces of
butter; 1/2 pint sweet cream; salt, pepper and mustard.

Beat in the yolks, cook in boiling vinegar until stiff,
being careful to stir clean from the sides of the bowl
while cooking. Remove from the fire, add the butter;
stirring until cool and smooth. Season to taste, and thin
with cream. Oil may be used in place of cream if preferred.


Mrs Henderson’s Cook Book.

Yolk of 1 egg ; 2 saltspoons salt ; 1 saltspoon mustard
powder ; oil (Howland’s) ; vinegar ; lemon juice ; cayenne

Beat yolk of egg well, in cold bowl, with silver fork; then
add salt and mustard worked well together. Mix in last, a
little good oil, slowly, a few drops at a time, alternated with a
few drops of vinegar. In proportion as the oil is used, the
sauce should gain consistency. When it begins to have the
appearance of jelly, alternate a few drops of lemon juice with
the oil.

When the egg has absorbed a gill of oil, finish the
sauce by adding a very little pinch of cayenne pepper, and
one and a half teaspoons of good vinegar. These proportions
will suit most tastes, yet some may prefer more oil and mus-
tard. Be cautious in the use of cayenne.

By beating the egg a minute before adding the oil, there
is little danger of the sauce curdling ; yet if by adding too
much oil at first it should curdle, interrupt the operation im-

Beat the yolks of one or two eggs on another
plate, add the curdled mayonnaise by degrees and finish by
adding oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne according
to taste.


Mrs. E. Hollenbeck.

Eight eggs, yolks; 1 cup sugar; 1/2 cup cream; 1 cup of
butter; 1 tablespoon salt; 1 tablespoon mustard; 1 table-
spoon black pepper; 1 pinch of cayenne; 1 1/2 pints of

Beat the yolks, add cream, sugar, salt, mustard, pepper,
and cayenne. Mix thoroughly. Bring the vinegar to the
boiling point, add the butter and boil again. Pour this on the
other ingredients, and mix well.

This dressing, if bottled when cold, and stored in a cool
place, will keep good for weeks.


Mrs. H. Z. Osborne.

Yolks of two eggs; 1 tablespoon soft butter; 1/3 teaspoon
dry mustard; 3 tablespoons Howland’s olive oil; the juice of
one lemon; Vs teaspoon salt; a dash of cayenne pepper and
also of sugar.

Free the yolks entirely from the whites of the egg, stir
briskly with silver fork one or two minutes, add the softened
butter, then the mustard, and the oil, a teaspoonful at a time.
Stir constantly for two minutes, and add the sugar and cay-
enne pepper, and lastly, the lemon juice, and salt. Stir all a
minute or two, or until very smooth and well blended.

If you follow directions carefully, you will have a dressing
that has not ” curdled ” and will not curdle, and can easily be
made in ten minutes.


Mrs. A. J. Glassell.

Three tablespoons of oil; 1 tablespoon salt; 3/4 tablespoon
mustard; 3/4 tablespoon sugar; 1/2 tablespoon pepper; 2 eggs;
1 teacup vinegar; 1 teacup milk.

Beat together until thick, the oil, salt, sugar, mustard and
pepper. Add the eggs well beaten, then the vinegar, little
by little, lastly the milk. Place the bowl containing mixture
in boiling water, stir it constantly until cooked to a thick
cream, (this will require from ten to fifteen minutes). If bot-
tled and kept cool, it will keep two weeks.

Good for lettuce or potato salad.


Mrs. Anna 0’Melven3′.

Three eggs; 1 teaspoon salt; 1 teaspoon dry mustard; 1/2
teaspoon pepper; 6 tablespoons Howland’s olive oil; 10
tablespoons vinegar; 4 tablespoons sweet cream.

Rub together until very smooth, the yolks of two hard
boiled eggs, and one raw egg. Add the salt, pepper and mus-
tard; and by degrees the oil and vinegar. Beat thoroughly,
adding the cream last.


Mrs. Emmeliue Childs.

One pint of vinegar; and 2 teaspoons salt — heated.
One tablespoon butter; 2 tablespoons white sugar; 2 teaspoons
of dry mustard; 6 tablespoons cream; and 6 eggs — mixed.

When these are well beaten, pour on the hot vinegar,
slowly; carefully beating all the time. Then boil until it be-
comes thick like boiled custard. Thin with cream, if desired.


Mrs. J. G. Gilchrist.

Half cup of vinegar; 1/4 cup water; 1/4 cup sugar; 1 tea-
spoon mustard; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 1 egg; a pinch of cayenne
pepper; butter the size of an English walnut.

Heat together the vinegar, water, sugar and butter, then
add the other ingredients.


Mrs. J. E. Packard, Pomona.

One level teaspoon dry mustard; 1 egg; 1/3 teaspoon salt;
3 tablespoons Howland’s olive oil; 1 tablespoon vinegar; 1/6
teaspoon black pepper.

Mix the mustard and the yolk of the egg smoothly
together, then add the oil drop by drop, then the vinegar, then
the salt and pepper. Last of all add the white of the egg
beaten to a stiff froth, stir this into the mixture and your
dressing is complete.


Mrs. Anna O’Melveny.

Four eggs; 1 tablespoon melted butter; 1/2 cup thick
cream ; 2 tablespoons strong vinegar; pepper, salt.

Rub until smooth the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs.
Beat in the yolk of one raw egg. Add butter, salt and pep-
per. Beat the cream, mix, and last add the vinegar.


Mrs. Mary Bean .

Dressing. Half cup vinegar; 1/2 cup sweet cream; 2
tablespoons sugar; a pinch each of salt and pepper.

Wash the lettuce, dry with a towel ; place in salad bowl,
and pour the dressing over it.


Mrs. Parker.

Six heads celery; 1 egg yolk; 1 teaspoon mustard; a lit-
tle salt and pepper; three tablespoons water; juice of one
lemon; 4 ounces Howland’s olive oil.

Wash and dry the celery, cut it in pieces in a salad
bowl; mix the yolk, mustard, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and
two tablespoons of water. Beat all together; pour the olive oil
in drop by drop, then add a tablespoon of hot water. Pour
over the celery.


Mrs. L. J. Rose.

Bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, salt.

Cut the peppers in halves, remove the seeds; chop the
tomatoes very fine; add half the pepper seeds, with a little
onion and salt. Mix all together. Fill the peppers and pour
Mayonnaise Dressing over them.


Mrs. Anna O’Melveny.

Cut a circle from the stem end of large, ripe tomatoes,
remove the pulp with a sharp knife, being careful not to
break the skin. Chop the pulp with one fresh cucumber
(peeled) and a slice of onion. Season with pepper, salt,
and a little of Howland’s olive oil. Place in the ice box
with the skins.

Prepare a thick mayonnaise which should
be put on ice also. Just before serving, drain off the
superfluous liquid, fill the skins with the chopped mixture,
placing a large spoonful of mayonnaise on top of each.
Set the stuffed tomatoes in the center of a platter, with a
border of crisp lettuce leaves. Serve as a course, with
delicate crackers and cheese, or cheese straws.


Mrs. J. J. :Mellus.

Use tomatoes the size of an egg. Remove the skins and
a little pulp, from the stem end; turn them to drain, and keep
them on ice one hour, then fill with mayonnaise. Serve with
lettuce and garnish with hard-boiled eggs and green peppers;
cut as fine as possible.

The lettuce should be washed, and kept on ice several
hours, being careful to shake out all the water.


Mrs. Helen Widney Watson.

One pint of sour cream, (very thick); 1 tablespoon of
vinegar, (generous measure) ; 1 tablespoon of Durkee’s salad-
dressing, (generous measure); 3 yolks of eggs.

If these proportions do not suit all tastes, the quantity of
vinegar and salad dressing can be added to or diminished.
The potatoes should be cold but freshly -cooked. Fill a
three-pint salad dish within an inch of the top with layers of
thinly-sliced potatoes ; each layer to be salted, peppered and
strewed with tiny bits of onion, then pour the dressing over it.


Mrs. Alice Curtain.

For the salad: Six large potatoes; 1 coffee cup chopped
celery, (using only white stalks. )

For the salad dressing: Three eggs; 1 cup milk; one table-
spoon each of sugar; Howland’s olive oil; salt; 1 scant table-
spoon mustard; 1 cup vinegar.

Boil the potatoes till done, when cold slice thin. Put in
the salad bowl a layer of potatoes, then a layer of the celery,
then a layer of the dressing, until potatoes and celery are
used. Prepare the dressing as follows : Rub the salt, mus-
tard and sugar in a bowl till smooth, work in well the oil and
the eggs, beat well, then add the vinegar slowly, and lastly
the milk. Set the bowl in a basin of boiling water, and cook
until it thickens, stirring constantly.


Mrs. Hugh W. Vail.

Large green cucumber; tomato; celery; parsley; onion;

Peel and cut the cucumbers in two, lengthwise, remove
the seeds, mix with the pulp of the tomato, chopped celery
and parsley, (a little onion if preferred,) cover with mayon-
naise, and fill the cucumber with the mixture, and serve in a
large bowl of cracked ice.


Beets boiled and sliced thin, with an equal quantity of
sliced potatoes. Served with cream dressing, either hot or


Mrs. M. J. Danison.

One half head of cabbage; 4 slices of boiled ham; 1 cooked
beet; 2 hard-boiled eggs; 1 tablespoon of dry mustard; 1/2 cup
of sugar; 1 cup of vinegar.

The pieces of ham, fat and all chopped fine ; cabbage and
beet chopped separately, and fine ; eggs chopped mediumly
fine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix all together,
pouring the vinegar on last.

Corned beef may be used instead of ham.


Mrs. J. M. Stewart.

One salad bowl cabbage (cut fine); 1/2 pint rich cream; 3/4
pint vinegar; butter size of a walnut; 1 teaspoon sugar; 1/2
teaspoon salt; 1/2 teaspoon corn starch; 1 teaspoon grated
horseradish, (dry); 2 pinches black pepper; 1 egg; (2 if cab-
bnge is watery.)

Put all ingredients; except cream, cabbage and egg] in a
double boiler. Bring to a boil, then stir in slowly the egg —
well beaten; then the cream. Pour over the cabbage while


Sprinkle grated cheese over crisp lettuce, and serve with
either French or cooked mayonnaise dressing.


Mrs. J. J. Melius.

Slice ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, and tiny- young onions.

Arrange them in layers in a salad bowl, garnish with
young lettuce, and the moment before serving, cover with
French dressing. The cucumbers should be peeled and soaked
in ice water for two hours before using.


Mrs. E. P. Ewing.

Heat medium-sized oysters to the boiling point, in their
own liquor. Drain them well, when cold, dress with Mayon-
naise, highly seasoned with salt, pepper and mustard, sprinkle
finely cut celery on top of the salad.


Mrs. E. P. Ewiug.

Salmon; cabbage; cream dressing.

Pick cooked salmon into small pieces, have white crisp
cabbage finely shaved; sprinkle a layer of cabbage in the
bowl, cover it with bits of salmon; repeat until the desired
quantity is obtained; pour over it a cold cream dressing, and
garnish by sprinkling on the top some shavings of cabbage.


Mrs. S. C. Hubbell.

One can of shrimps; 1 good-sized lemon; 1 cup sour cream
— thick; 1 yolk of egg; 3 tablespoons salad dressing;
celery; cayenne pepper.

Break the shrimps in two or three pieces, squeeze the juice
of the lemon over them, and add half the quantity, of celery.
For the dressing, add the well-beaten yolk to the cream and
Durkee’s dressing, using very little cayenne.


Mrs. M. S. Mathison.

Soak canned shrimps in ice water several hours, and serve
them with boiled mayonnaise dressing.

Dressing. — Three eggs; 1 teaspoon mustard; 2 teaspoons
salt; 1/4 saltspoon cayenne pepper; 2 tablespoons sugar; 2
tablespoons melted butter; or Howland’s olive oil; 1/2 cup of
hot vinegar; cream, lettuce, English walnuts.

Beat the yolks with the mustard, salt, cayenne, sugar, but-
ter and vinegar. Froth the whites and cook all in a double
boiler until thick. Thin with cream. Garnish with English
walnuts, and lettuce.


Mrs. V. G. Whorton.

One can of shrimps; 3 large cucumbers.

Soak the shrimps in ice water one hour. Pare the cucum-
bers; lay them in ice until very cold and crisp; cut in cubes.
Cut the shrimps in two or three pieces; mix with the cucum-
bers. Serve wdth mayonnaise or lettuce.


Miss Wister.

Select small, heavy lobsters; put them in warm water and
boil half an hour. Take from the shells and claws all the
edible meat. Cut it in blocks, and cool it thoroughly.

Use Mayonnaise dressing, very cold. When ready to serve make
a nest of lettuce on the dish; mix about three- fourths of the
Mayonnaise with the prepared lobster; place it in the dish;
cover with the rest of the dressing ; garnish with small tufts
of lettuce, and the smaller claws.


Mrs. M. R. Sinsabaugh.

Two cans of cove oysters; 1/2 teacup cream; 1/2 teacup of
vinegar; 3 eggs; 1 tablespoon butter (heaping); 1 tablespoon
celery seed, or celery, cut fine; 1 teaspoon sugar; 1 teaspoon
salt; 1 teaspoon mustard; 1/4 teaspoon cayenne; handful of
rolled crackers.

Beat the eggs. Add to them the cream, vinegar, butter,
sugar, salt, mustard and cayenne. Cook in a steam boiler
until it thickens; add the celery. Drain the liquor from the
oysters; chop them, add the cracker crumbs; pour the dressing
over them when cold.


Mrs. George Steckel.

One pair’ of sweetbreads ; 1 teaspoon salt ; 1 pint mayon-
naise ; lettuce, onions.

After the sweetbreads are cleaned and parboiled, let them
lay in cold water half an hour, then remove the skin and fat;
and cover with boiling water. Salt and simmer gently twenty
minutes, then set aside to cool. Wash and dry, tender leaves
of lettuce.

Rub the bottom of a bowl with onion, and in it
make one pint of mayonnaise. Place in the center of the
salad dish a thin slice of onion and arrange lettuce leaves
around it. Cut the cold sweetbreads in thin slices; mix care-
fully with mayonnaise, and add to the dish.

This is a delicious salad, and if prepared as directed will
have only the faintest suspicion of onion.


Mrs. Henderson’s Cook Book.

One chicken; white celery stalks; 3 tablespoons vinegar;
1 tablespoon Rowland’s olive oil; salt, pepper, mustard.

Boil chicken till tender, when cold, separate the meat from
the bones. Cut into small bits; do not mince it. Cut some
white, tender stalks of celery into three-quarters inch lengths.
Mix chicken and celery together; stir into them a mixture in
the proportion of three tablespoons of vinegar to one of oil;
pepper, salt, mustard to taste. Set this aside for an hour or
two. When ready to serve mix the chicken and celery with a
mayonnaise dressing, reserving a portion of the mayonnaise to
mark the top. Garnish with fresh celery leaves, stick a bunch
of these in the center of the salad and from the center to each
of the four sides, sprinkle rows of capers.

Chicken salad is often made of lettuce instead of celery.
Marinate the chicken alone a moment before serving, add the
small, tender, sweet lettuce leaves, then pour mayonnaise
dressing over the top. Garnish with the center heads of let-
tuce, capers, cold chopped red beets, or sliced hard-boiled
eggs. Sometimes little slips of anchovy are added for a gar-
nish. When on the table it should all be mixed together.

Many may profit by this recipe for chicken salad, for it is
astonishing how few understand making so common a a dish.
It is often minced and mixed with hard-boiled eggs for a


Mrs. E. A. Otis.

In mixing chicken salad allow one yolk of an egg to each
chicken, and to four chickens one and a half pints of olive
oil. Pick the chickens apart with fingers, removing carefully
all fat and skin. Then take celery, pick likewise into small
pieces and add it to the chicken until there is an equal quan-
tity of each. If celery cannot be obtained, use lettuce pre-
pared in the same manner.

For the dressing one level teaspoon of salt to each yolk of
an egg; pepper to taste, one teaspoon of dry mustard, and
juice of one lemon, more if the lemon is not very juicy. The
oil should be added a few drops at a time, stirring constantly.
While stirring, add an occasional drop of vinegar. To this
mixture add the last thing one-half cup of rich cream, and
when thoroughly mixed, pour over the salad just before it is
served. The object of the lemon is to cut the oil, and make
the dressing of a cream-like consistency.


Mrs. L. J Rose.

One dozen eggs; 2 tablespoons Howland’s olive oil; onions,
salt, red pepper.

Peel and cut in halves the hard-boiled eggs; remove the
yolks, mash and add the oil. Use a little onion, salt and pep-
per to taste; when thoroughly mixed, fill the white cups.
Press them together and serve on lettuce leaves.


Mrs. J. A. Fairchild.

Six hard-boiled eggs; 3 medium-sized pickles; 1 teaspoon
mustard; 2 teaspoons sugar; 1 teaspoon salt; 1 tablespoon
Howland’s olive oil; 2 tablespoons vinegar; a little parsley, a
little pepper.

Cut the eggs in halves; take out the yolks, powder them,
and mix with the chopped pickles, parsley, and other season-
ing. Cut a small piece from the round end of the eggs; fill
with the mixture, and garnish with parsley.


Mrs. Orr Haralson.

Eight eggs, hard-boiled; 4 tablespoons Howland’s olive oil;
2 tablespoons vinegar: 1 small teaspoon salt; 1/2 teaspoon pep-
per; 1/2 clove garlic; 1/4 teaspoon mustard; 1 sprig parsley —
chopped fine.

After the eggs are boiled and thoroughly cold, cut them in
halves; take out the yolks, mash, and mix them with the
other ingredients. Fill the whites with the mixture. Tie two
halves together with a dainty ribbon, and place on crisp lettuce
and cover with mayonnaise.


Mrs. L. J. Rose.

This delicious dish is made of several kinds of fruit.
Leave the small fruits whole, and slice the larger kinds.
Sweeten to taste, and serve with ice cream.


Mrs. Hugh W. Vail.

Cut the shaddocks in halves; remove the pith and seeds;
fill with sugar and cracked ice.


Mrs. Hugh W. Vail.

Quarter the oranges and serve with lettuce and mayon-


Mrs. John A. Henderson.

Three oranges; 1 lemon; 1 can pineapple; 1/2 box gelatine;
1 coffee cup granulated sugar; candied cherries, white

The juice of three oranges; if not very juicy use four;
the juice of the lemon and juice from the pineapple. Cut the
slices of pineapple in small pieces. Soak the gelatine for one
hour in just enough water to cover it. Then pour over it half
a cup of boiling water to dissolve it. Add the pieces of pine-
apple to the juices and gelatine with the sugar and set away to
harden. Add candied cherries as the salad begins to harden;
white grapes may also be then added. Bananas may be used
instead of pineapple.


Mrs. A. M Hall.

One box of gelatine; 1 cup cold water; 1 1/2 pints boiling
water; 2 or 3 lemons; 2 cups sugar; oranges, bananas, straw-
herries and pineapple.

Pour the cold, water over the gelatine and soak one hour.
Pour over this the boiling water and strain. Add the juice
of the lemons and the sugar. When almost cool stir in sliced
oranges, bananas, strawberries and pineapple.

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